Singer Featherweight Gathering/Shirring Foot Information

Material placed under the gatherer and stitched in the usual way will be slightly gathered. Any fabric that drapes well is especially suited for shirring with thegatherer, generally with a long stitch and tight tension. To increase the fullnes of the gathers, lengthen the stitch. To decrease the fullness, shorten the stitch. With the gatherer, it is possible to shirr in narrow rows as shown in Fig. 33.

Fig 33

The material may be guided as easily as when sewing with the presser foot. Fine materials, such as batiste, silk or net, may be very attractivelt shirred. Where only a slight fullnes is required, as at the top of a sleeve or around the neck, the gatherer will be found very convenient.

A very pleasing effect may be gained by using thread or embroidery silk of contrasting colour on the bobbin. Fig. 35 shows a white organdie collar and cuff set with red and green smocking made with the gatherer, using fine crochet cotton or tatting thread on top and white cotton on the bobbin

Singer Featherweight Adjustable Hemmer Information

The Adjustable Hemmer

With its slide close the attachment will make hems up to 1 inch wide.

Loosen the screen at the front and move the slide until the pointer is against the desired width, then tighten the screw. Insert the edge of the material between the slide and the number gauge, and draw it backward and forward until the hem is formed, stopping with it's end under the needle. Lower the presser bar and sew, taking care in guiding the work to keep the hemmer full.

To make a gem more than one inch wide, loosen the screw, draw the slide to the right as far as it will go, and turn it towards you. Fold and crease down a gem of the desired width, pass the fold under the extension at the right of the hemmer, then insert the edge of the material into the folder and proceed to sew.

Singer Featherweight Ruffler Information

Lines 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 in Fig. 42 indicate where the material is to be placed for various operations, as follows:

Line 1 -- the correct position for the material to which the ruffled material is applied. Line 2 -- material to be ruffled. Line 3 -- the facing for the ruffle. Line 4 -- the strip of piping material. Line 5 -- the edge to be piped. Refer to Fig. 42 when inserting the material in the ruffler

The names and uses of the principal parts of the ruffler are as follows, see Fig. 42:

A -- FOOT -- the part by which the ruffler is attached to the presser bar.

B -- FORK ARM -- the section that must be placed astride the needle clamp.

C -- ADJUSTING SCREW -- the screw that regulates the fullness of the gather.

D -- PROJECTION -- the part that projects through the slots in the adjusting lever.

E -- ADJUSTING LEVER -- the lever that sets the ruffler for gathering or for making a plait once at every six inches or once at every twelve inches, as desired; also for disengaging the ruffler, when either plaiting or gathering is not desired.

F -- ADJUSTING FINGER -- the part which regulates the width or size of the plaits.

G -- SEPARATOR GUIDE -- the guide on the underside of the ruffler, containing slots into which the edge of the material is placed to keep the heading of the ruffle even; also for separating the material to be ruffled from the material to which the ruffle is to be attached.

H -- RUFFLING BLADE -- the upper blue steel blade with the teeth at the end to push the material in plaits up to the needle.

J -- SEPARATOR BLADE -- the lower blue steel blade without teeth, which prevents the teeth of the ruffling blade coming into contact with the feed of the machine or the material to which ruffle or plaiting is to be applied.

Fig 43

To Attach the Ruffler to the machine Raise the needle bar to its highest position and remove the presser foot. Attach the ruffler foot (A) to the presser bar from the right and fasten by means of the thumb screw, at the same time placing the fork arm (B) astride the needle clamp as shown in Fig. 43.

To Adjust the Ruffler for Gathering

The adjusting finger (F) is not intended for gathering and should be moved forward and away from the needle, as shown in Fig. 43.

Raise the adjusting lever (E) and move it to the left so that the projection (D) will enter the slot marked "1" in the adjusting lever (E) when the lever is released. The ruffling blade will then move forward and back once at every stitch. Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades, following the line 2 in Fig. 42. Draw the material slightly back of the needle, lower the presser bar and commence to sew.

Fig 44

To make fine gathering, shorten the stroke of the ruffling blade by turning the adjusting screw (C) upward; also shorten the stitch. To make full gathering, lengthen the stroke of the ruffling blade by turning the adjusting screw (C) downward; also lengthen the stitch. By varying these adjustments, many pleasing varieties of work can be accomplished

To Make a Ruffle and Sewon a facing in One Operation

Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades, following the line 2 (Fig. 42).

Fig 45

Place the garment to which the ruffle is to be attached under the separator blade, following the line 1 (Fig. 42). Place the material for thefacing over the upper blue blade, as shown

Fig 46

in Fig. 45, following the line 3 (Fig. 42). The facing may be straight or bias material. If thefacing is to be on the right side of the garment, place the garment and the ruffle so that the wrong sides are together. If the facing is to be on the wrong side, place the right sides of the garment and the ruffle together.

Fig 47

Piping a Ruffle

Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades, following the line (Fig. 42). This material must not be over 1 1/4 inches wide, as it is carried through the ruffler with the finished edge of the ruffle to the right of the attachment as shown in Fig. 46. The material for piping must measure about 1/4 inch wide when folded in the centre and is usually cut on the bias. Place the piping material in the ruffler, following the line 4 (Fig. 42) with the folded edge of the piping to the right. The material to which the piping and ruffling are to be sewn should be folded on the edge and inserted in the ruffler, following the line 5 (Fig.4)

To Adjust the Ruffler for Plaiting

Raise the adjusting lever (E) and move it to the right so that the projection (D) will enter the slot marked "6" in the adjusting lever when the lever is released. The ruffling blade will then move forward and back once at every six stitches. To adjust the ruffling blade to make a plait once at every twelve inches, place the adjusting lever (E) so that the projection (D) enters the slot marked "12" in the adjusting lever. Insert the material to be plaited between the two blue blades, following the line 2 (Fig. 42). The size or width of plaits is regulated by the adjusting screw (C) and the adjusting finger (F, Fig. 47). To make a wider plait, move the adjusting finger (F) back or toward the needle and turn the adjusting screw (C) downward. To make a smaller plait, turn the adjusting screw (C) upward. The distance between plaits is regulated by the length of stitch.

To Adjust the Ruffler for Group Plaiting and Gathering

The ruffler can be adjusted for group plaiting by lifting the adjusting lever (E) and moving it to the right so that the top of the projection (D) enters

the small slot indicated by the star on the adjusting lever. This should be done at the points where you wish to make the space between the plaits. The ruffler will then stop and plain stitching will be made. When the desired space has been made, adjust the lever (E) so that the projection (D) enters either the slot marked "6" or the slot marked "12". By alternately making groups of plaits and plain spaces, as shown in Fig. 48, very attractive work can be produced.

To Oil the Ruffler

Occasionally apply a drop of oil to the working parts of the ruffler. After oiling, operate the ruffler on a waste piece of material to prevent the oil soiling the work. If the ruffler does not plait evenly, a drop of oil may remedy the trouble

http://www.april1930s.com/html/ruffler_attachment_instruction.html

Twilight Readalong: Chapter One

What we learn:

• Bella is 17. Dark long hair. Pale translucent skin with no blemishes (bitch).
• Bella's mother leaves her father a few months after she was born.
• She's spent the first 14 summers in Forks, so is fairly familiar with the town.
• Charlie bought her a faded red 1984 Chevy as a welcoming present. It's a sturdy beast but she loves it.
• Forks High School has 358 students including Bella.
• Rosalie described as gentle waving blonde hair to the middle of her back with a killer figure.
• Alice described as short, pixie-like with deep black cropped hair going in all directions. Graceful like a dancer.
• Emmett is described as being built like a serious weight lifter with dark curly hair.
• Jasper is described as being taller than Emmette, lean, muscle with honey blonde hair.
• Edward is described as lanky with untidy bronze colored hair.

A good introduction to the who what where when and how. Setting the scene for the book. As someone who lives in the North West, I was pleased to see the detail paid to describing the environment. Feels like its written from a first hand account.

I was surprised that such a hot piece of meat like Edward was sitting alone in his class given what I know about teenage superficiality. Bella illustrates for the first time that she lacks this self preservation which is prevalent in the book.

What I enjoy most about Stephenie''s writing style is how intimately she draws you into Bella's world. The little details, like Bella's opinion of her parents and her conversation with her contemporaries is particularly good at illustrating this. the tone of voice is self depreciating and morose, fitting for how she feels about having left Arizona.

Not quite convinced that a guy with a distasteful expression would bring me to tears. Bella needs a thicker skin.

Twilight Read-a-long

Vampires? What a lame concept! Blood and emo lust... eww! Definitely not my thing. As a professional 30 year old woman, I didn't want anything to do with this ultra lame phenom called "TWILIGHT", especially after reading about those crazy-crazy TwiMoms.

But... my curiousity got to me. I picked up Twilight from the Vancouver Public Library on a lark during one of my weekly trips to restock my reading material.

I expected some deliciously quotable lines to laugh over. What surprised me is that I couldn't put it down... For what had been criticized as teen emo fiction and "terrible writing", I was 110% engaged and fully caught up in the story and the characters.

I literally whipped through all 4 books (and devoured Midnight Sun on Stephenie Meyer's homepage) all in a matter of a week. I remember sighing after the last page of the first book wondering if a guy like Edward could even exist (immortality and bloodlust aside). I was officially a convert.

When I finished the series, I was devastated. It took me 3 months to stop mooning over Jacob. It was like a bad break up. (My boyfriend was terribly patient about this). I reread scenes I adored. For the sanity of everyone around me I cut myself off cold turkey. I couldn't subject 'J' to anymore soap box declarations about why Jacob was clearly a better fit for Bella than milk toast Edward.

Life eventually went back to normal. Since seeing Eclipse, I've decided to slowly read the series again and document the chapters as I go. Please follow along with me, chapter by chapter and provide your thoughts...

Let us begin. Open your books and turn to page 1...

Pandan Jelly

 

Recipe adapted from Malaysian Cakes and Desserts by Rohani Jelani 

Pandan Jelly
(Printable Recipe)

Ingredients
500 ml (2 cups) Water
3 tsp Agar-agar Powder
120-150 g Sugar
100 ml Pandan Juice
120 ml Coconut Milk (preferable 100% coconut milk)

Method

Pandan Juice: Rinse 8 Pandan leaves and, cut into 2 cm lengths. Blend the pandan leaves with 150 ml (2/3 cup) of water. Strain the pandan juice and discard solids.

In a medium saucepan, combine water, agar-agar powder and sugar and bring it to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until agar-agar and sugar completely dissolves, about 10 to 15 minutes.

In a bowl, mix together the pandan juice and coconut milk. Then pour into the simmering agar-agar mixture, stirring constantly until the mixture come to a boil. Once it reaches a rolling boil, take the pan off the heat immediately and pour contents into a shallow glass dish of cake tin measuring approximately 16 cm (6 ½ inches) across. Set aside to cool before chilling in the refrigerator. Cut as desired and serve chilled.

 

WHERE TO BUY PANDAN LEAVES:

 

T&T Chinatown & Metrotown, the produce section. You can also check out Wong Xin market at 747 Gore Ave, Vancouver (Chinatown). They have fresh supply of pandan leaves every Friday.

 

FROM: http://www.seasaltwithfood.com/2010/05/pandan-jelly.html

 

Lemon-Vodka Cream Pops

3 or 4 medium lemons
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/8 tsp. table salt
2 Tbs. citron vodka
A splash of citron vodka gives the classic creamsicle a decidedly adult kick.Yields 8 pops.

Using a vegetable peeler, remove all of the zest from 3 of the lemons in 3- to 4-inch-long strips. Set the lemons aside.Combine the lemon zest, cream, milk, sugar, and salt in a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Let steep at room temperature, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.Squeeze 2/3 cup juice from the reserved lemons (juice the fourth lemon, if necessary). Stirring constantly, pour the lemon juice into the cream mixture in a slow stream. Stir in the vodka.Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a 4-cup glass measure (or any container with a spout for easy pouring), pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Divide the mixture among eight 3-oz. pop molds or wax-lined paper cups. Freeze until just barely set, 5 to 6 hours. Insert craft sticks and freeze until completely set, about 2 hours more. When ready to serve, unmold or peel off the paper cups.make ahead tips

The pops can be frozen for up to 3 days.